THIS IS SPARTA!!!
“This is my domain!! This is Sew-To-Fit, and I shall have the last laugh!!!
In this corner we have Andrea of Sew-To-Fit, using weapons of mass construction known only to fellow Spartan Sewcialites, and an arsenal of ammunition along with Newlook 6303 the Pattern of the day. Fighting with her, is a team of notions supporting her in this battle of wills and backing her every cut and stitch.
Over in the other corner, we have a seersucker impostor, a Silk embossed fabric foe which has the armor of a calendared finish giving it the appearance of a cotton picking seersucker. The fabric could not be ironed hard…it could only be pressed ever so gently in order to avoid pressing out the nice little squares in the design of the fabric. I was aiming to win that war!
Battle and Constructions Notes:::
Alterations and design changes–
- cut size 14
- Lengthened the sleeves 2.5 inches.
- 1 1/2″ FBA via Pivot & Slide method.
- Add 3/8″ seam inside back and cut on bias to make the design lines continue from the front and disappear off the back hem.
I cut only the right sleeve on the bias to get the stripe to go in the same direction as that of the front and back, making it a continuous stream. In doing so I used most of my fabric and was not able to have both sides of the back on the bias. I made sure to match the sleeve so the lines would meet at the notch point of the front and continue down around the sleeve to meet the lines on the back.
I tried to put the other sleeve only on white but I did not have enough room– I tried several layouts to determine the best look. The second layout for the sleeve is to just allow the lower half or the lower 4 inches of the sleeve to have a horizontal stripe forming a band at the hem. I think I like this one better.
Blocking the pattern pieces when on the bias is important to maintain the size and shape of each section before stitching them together. In order to keep the shapes the right size and stabilize each pattern piece, I used Design Plus Super Fine Bias fusible stay tape to support the edges after spraying Perfect Sew wash away fabric stabilizer on the fabric. (I purchased the Design Plus from Lyla Messinger during an American Sewing Guild class. As a Palmer/Pletsch Instructor, I get the Perfect Sew at wholesale, but you can find it on their website, here.) (Non-sponsored)
I blocked each piece against the pattern piece each time I moved it to a different position, by lightly taping and shifting the fabric back into place with the pattern as a guide, all the while making sure the edges matched up to the original pattern paper.
Cutting on the bias was more trial and error than science.
Constructions steps were changed up a little in order to allow for the side seams to be completely finished with no raw/serged edges. (See photo.)
The back right was also cut on the bias in order to have just a small section of the stripes finish off the tail of the back hem. Doing this meant I had to sacrifice the left back side and cut it straight to avoid having stripes run through that hem. I knew going into the process I would have a problem matching a bias seam to a straight seam which would cause some drag, yet I was willing to live with this problem. I’m really happy that I took the chance, because the positioning of the stripes are really nice.
As it turns out, this top is really a terrific addition to my wardrobe. At first I wasn’t feeling this design because of the extra fabric in the front–it is double over. I would suggest you make sure to use a really lightweight fabric, or else it may be too heavy since the entire front is two layers.