Add a little extra ease here and a little extra length there and you have a great recipe for a really cool outfit.
What an adrenaline rush this jumpsuit was to make…I just love making that surefire outfit. Especially, when I have my fitted bodice pattern that I drafted many moons ago. This was one of my occasional sewing projects to cleanse the palette a true no brainer, because I just did not want to deal with another pattern that needed a bunch of fitting. “What you say??!” Fitting is my middle name? Okay then…guess what?..we don’t always use all our given names, all the time, do we?
With this ensemble, I took my fitted top that only goes to the waist and made the necessary changes to sew it at the midsection to the pants base to create what is better known as the “jumpsuit”. Duh…okay, some of you who are reading this already knew that right.? That statement was for the beginners in the house.
If you haven’t guessed it already, we just don’t have winters and thus the closest I could come to styling this “sleeveless” faux fur topper, was to wear it with a “sleeveless” outfit. And of course, my child and my sister were very instrumental in making sure I pulled this gorgeous ensemble off without a hitch. Gotta love them both.
I added a few little details to make it stand out and give it just a little extra pazzazz…although, that extra doesn’t really show through all the print in the silky polyester fabric I bought umpteen years ago from I know not where.
The shoulders are pleated so that I had enough bust ease for movement, with a string of rhinestone trim added. The back is just a simple open slash with a loop and rhinestone button. At the waist, I made sure the pants were extra long to reach my “true” waistline, and the top is at least 3-4″ longer than my waist to give it the blousing needed to look like a “pant” and top separate.
I hope you have been following along with my YouTube channel or my Periscope so you can stay up on the latest tutorials I post each week. Please leave questions or comments letting me know of any help you need.
Unless you regularly read my blog, subscribe to my YouTube channel or follow me live on Pericope, you wouldn’t know that I have been consistently working on a Wardrobe Fit-Along since July of last year 2015 in collaboration with Sew Much Fabric, an online fabric store based out of Texas. We began with the White Shirt, then the Sheath dress, then I took a holiday break and did a holiday sequin skirt tutorial. Currently we have been working on the denim jacket. This Wardrobe Fit-Along is an ongoing process that I have been making regular videos for in order to discuss and tackle particular fitting issues found with each particular garment type and style in relation to different body compositions.
As for this jacket, I was not going to make it….I complained the collar was too big for my bust, then I complained that I didn’t like the way the back hikes up, and the front draped…. I bet I am one of the most stubborn person this wardrobe consultant has probably ever provided services for. I have given her more grief and dismay along the way, than I care to admit, over her suggestions and recommendations for what items I should make for myself. Yet every single time, I am giddy about the make, and it looks just as nice as she had said it would.
So, why then, do I complain so much along the way. Well, lets see, I’m just that kind of person, and it takes a special person to work with me. Yeah, that’s the answer and I’m sticking with that story. I don’t particularly like the little tie belt, however, I didn’t realize it would be a problem until I wore it to my function. So next time, I may make a regular “belt” with this fabric. I left the snaps out for no reason except, I just couldn’t find them…and I wanted to wear the jacket NOW. You know right?
The jacket was extremely easy to construct…I mean easy, like my granddaughter could do it minus the hong kong treatment I did to the seams. That part wasn’t necessary with this unlined faced jacket. I just couldn’t stand the thought of seeing a lot of bare seams meandering about inside my clothes. I just could not have that, it just isn’t pretty right?
So, if you want to continue keeping up with my shenanigans and wardrobe building, while learning something along the way, just stay tuned and subscribe to my YouTube Channel. I have plenty more fun, basics to fight about, fitting lessons to teach, and sewing tips and techniques to share. Because that is what I do….I love to teach you what I learn along the way.
As for helping you know exactly “what” looks good on your body, check-in with Roz each week, because “that is” what she does, a fantastic well educated textiles professional who is well trained in the art of wardrobe building. Together, we are a powerful force. Now, all I need to do is find a dependable carpenter to get my sewing studio in order, and I’ll be able to sew more wardrobe staples faster.
I did a preliminary tissue fitting of the pattern to determine any major adjustment that may have been needed. Usually, that is what I do to determine if I need to make a muslin. I try not to always go right into an muslin fitting, because there are so many major adjustments that can be revealed by just holding the pattern up to your body or pinning it in place to check for issues. In this case I checked the position of the tucks and whether I needed to lengthen the waist, etc.
Pattern Alterations: This is Vogue 9037. I cut a size 14. You can take a look at the video here for a thorough explanation of the changes I made and why. In this video I did not mention that I removed 2 inches from the bottom length of the front towards the end of construction. I just did not like that sloppy, floppy look for my taste. (1″FBA, Shifted the tucks for balance, sway back adj., and took out a little on the back neck, and did a wedge tuck in the lapel.) Fabric: Linen/Cotton blend I purchased from Sew Much Fabric…this one is sold out, but her is the link for the black. http://stores.smfabric.com/linen-blend-denim-black/ Have you been following along with my Wardrobe Fit-Along for the last few months? I would like to know if what I have been venturing on for all to see has been helping you or anyone you know.
I love to sew, who doesn’t like sewing? If you read this blog, then its probably no secret that I utilize help on a regular basis for suggestions on what to sew. I have so many ideas that swim in my head, but I don’t like shopping in stores to try on clothes just to be disappointed. I like having someone keep up with fashion details for me by considering my taste and my style. That is what this Stitch Fix service is….they review my Pinterest boards, my blog, and watch my Youtube videos to get to know me and then they send me articles of clothing that they feel will work for me. To say the least, I am really surprised at how well this lady has been doing for me. This is my journey for a great wardrobe that I don’t need to do all the work for, considering sewing isn’t working for me. I do loathe sewing a garment and it not work estesthically for me or my preferences in dress. All the patterns out there and all the styles available, I just don’t have the time, or inclination to sew things that I absolutely am not sure will work for my taste, my body AND my style all at the same time. I do not like discarding good makes because they were great fitting garments, yet did not fit my taste and style.
February was recorded two weeks ago, but I just got around to letting you know. If you follow my channel, you will be alerted when the videos go live. I have so many videos in queue right now, that I cannot say when they will become live for viewing. So, don’t forget to choose the little bell beneath my video so you will be sent an immediate notification when a new video is available for public viewing.
If I really like what they send me, and I want to make one just like it, I will just duplicate that garment and create my own pattern for later use. That way I know for a fact I will be successful whenever I want to make another one just like that, and I don’t need to worry about fiddling with commercial patterns. It just makes much more sense to me to go that route instead of trying to worry about fitting a new pattern every single time. Such as with my henley top shown here. Copying RTW (Ready-to-wear) is easier for me than actually spending a lot of time fitting and refitting a drafted pattern. Although, they both have their challenges.
This particular service charges $20 per month to keep up with you and make suggestions. That amount goes towards your purchase so you don’t loose anything. There are so many services like this out there right now, and I am willing to check them out. I don’t mind learning about others that you may be aware of that you think are pretty good at really trying to understand you and what you like. This is my referral link if you want to tryout the services here. I get a $25 credit towards my next fix if you try out the service, which doesn’t cost you anything extra besides the $20 styling fee which is applied to your fix as well. It’s basically a referral program. So let me know about any you may know.
Last year I went back to the basics. With the help of a wardrobe consultant, I have been steadily trying to make basic garments to go along with the fun flashy mood enhancing outfits I am prone to focus on regularly. She insisted I make a basic white shirt, here. I followed along, rather defiantly, but I did what I was told. I had no idea that the basic white shirt would become one that I would reach for more often than not. However, my inner child couldn’t be held back for much longer, I had to “turn it up” a notch so to speak. Thus, I bring to you my version of the basic white button down shirt!!!! Tadah!!!
It is so much fun when you can create exactly what you want and have it work out the first time around. This is particularly so because I had already gone through the process of fitting and tweaking my basic sloper for the “darted” front bodice some time ago. So all I had to do was make the changes to the basic shirt pattern as needed to make this one. I had a few design elements in mind that I knew I wanted, including that elastic sleeve detail. I just love it.
I kept the upper band flat and just kept the 1″ elastic in the area of the sleeve to keep it flat over the bust and at the back. This small detail made all the difference for me.
Another very important detail that made the difference for this being an “off-the-shoulder”, was the need for a different type of dart. I made the regular side bust dart into a “french” dart so that it would not appear like a lone line floating in a sea of clouds. It also elongated the torso. Another win. Also, I just had to have the regular “men’s” shirt pleat in the back in order to give it that oversized look. Since I have fallen in love with my new “boyfriend” jeans, I now wanted to have a “boyfriend” shirt. So, I made sure I exaggerated the length of the bodice and the sleeves.
The sleeve cuffs are really regular double button oversized as well so they hang over my thumb just a little to make it look too big but not slouchy. The buttons were a gift from a customer, which made the outfit. It really is amazing how easy it is for people to understand your style just by the clothes you wear.
And to think, I didn’t want to wear an “off-the-shoulder” because I don’t like the idea of adding any extra to my chest area. This flat band treatment really made all the difference. The pants are my Style Arc Cassie pants from last year I think. Construction Details:
Pattern- self drafted
Rotate side dart to french dart
disregard waist darts so as to keep all amount of fullness
lengthen bodice front and back by 2 inches
lengthen sleeve 2 inches
slash and spread sleeve cap to add fullness at top only all the way to cuff
measure and cut top of shoulder and sleeve away.
Have you taken the time to make sure you have a basic pattern that you can work from when you find that special outfit or garment inspiration?