Project Birthday Jumpsuit…is a Badgley Mischka for Vogue Jumpsuit. V1249..
Close-fitting (through bustline), partially interfaced, lined jumpsuit has back invisible zipper.
Size 14-20, I cut a 14/16. But I actually should have cut the 12/14 up top.
The drawing didn’t fall in the front, but she was standing pretty straight and tall. Also, I don’t have much curve definition in the front. I am really straight, and my bust are small. So my garment tends to collapsed a little. Next time I wear it, I will wear a padded bra to add to the front curves. I don’t want to take out anything there, I want to give the illusion of more…which is why I liked the addition of the ruffles up front. The garment on the pattern envelope was obviously belted a little tight, cause the front on the model actually looked liked gathers, on mine it was plenty smooth with the acceptation of the pleats.
For the boning I used a technique that I invented (at least I think so…) that makes for a really straight seam.
I removed the plastic boning from the channel after initially measuring, I then sew down the channel sides and around bottom. At the curves in the princess line, I always curve the fabric in a cup like fashion thereby shorting the channel to force it to curve with the fabric. So when I reinsert the boning (making sure to have it curl with the direction of the princess seam) the bodice will curve in naturally around the bust and will form right into the chest above the bust at the neckline. So, even with the weight of the ruffles, the neck edge will not try to flop out to the front. (I have found that edge stitching doesn’t always stop this from happening.)
You have to remember to determine the direction the boned foundation will face before knowing which way to curve the boning insertion. I faced the right side of the foundation to the wrong side of the bodice…not what the pattern instructions suggest… I wanted to make sure the outside of the garment did not show any signs of boning. It worked..as my classmate (a fellow designer) did not realize I had boning until she hugged me.
For the zipper- I used the Threads article “Sew Invisible Zippers like a Pro” from the August/Sept 2011 issue for the instructions. For the remainder of the garment I used the pattern instructions.
I am happy with the back alteration. I shorted it by 1/2 inch to allow for a short back from shoulder blade to waist. I raised the crotch by 1 inch in the back.
I liked the overall design and construction. I felt absolutely comfortable in the jumpsuit all night!!! I really forgot I was in a strapless outfit. The corset foundation was extremely comfortable and secure. I never worried about the top falling, and the fit was terrific in the crotch. I really don’t normally get that straight out the gate on any pant pattern. I think I will use this pattern as my pant and bustier slopers for sure.
Pattern alterations or any design changes you made:
When shortening the crotch, the pleats are moved off grain, they have to be re-adjusted. “Please return your pleats to the upright position before take off.” lol
I shorted the front crotch 3/4 inch. The pants had enough ease to take care of any extras on the thighs. I didn’t need to do any full seat adjustments. I could see that as soon as I cut the pattern tissue. But, of course I had to shorten the front length.
I also lengthened the bottom of the bodice by 1/2 inch in the front and side seams. I will take that out next time, as I believe it may have something to do with the folds forming in the front under the bust.
I also lengthened the pants by two inches. May need to remember to wear the shoes I made the garment to match. They just weren’t comfortable to wear all night during the party. A hostess must be comfortable.
Would you sew it again? Would you recommend it to others?
I would definitely sew this again with narrower pants.
Even though I DONOT drink, I must do my Captain Morgan pose. “The joke of the day.” I had a lot of fun, and still never was concerned about the fit of my jumpsuit. I literally forgot I was wearing a strapless garment.
It appears that even leaning over, I had no worries. I raised the upper front 1 inch. I never tugged on my bodice anytime during the night. It was a very long night at that.
By the way… the beautiful cake was compliments of my very talented daughter Jennifer..