This man here will always challenge my husband’s position in my heart.   I made this shirt for his birthday in time to mail it to him as a surprise.  When he got it, he thought it was the pants to the suit I started 2 years ago.  No such luck buddy! Those pants will be finished soon, but with a different material for the waistband and the pockets.  You see, when I made the suit coat, I ran out of fabric to finish the pants.  Besides, I doubt seriously he will be able to fit the pants by now.

Some people say they don’t like sewing for family.  Well, not me…I LOVE sewing for my family.  Especially, when they aren’t picky about what I make and how I make it.  They give me the freedom to just create, with no specific deadlines, besides the ones I place on myself, and their happiness when I see them wearing the garment.  I just love it!!! For REAL!!!  ((((-:  Big grins on my face.

I made this from a fine shirting fabric I bought from the one of the only folks I buy shirting, The Wool House, while at a sewing convention in Atlanta or LA some years back.  The only way to buy from them other than going to their store in Canada, which I think is still open, is to see them at any sewing expo or conference they might frequent.  I know he will be at the upcoming International Quilt Festival here in Houston this coming month.  Of course, I will be stocking up again.  The last time I went to New York to purchase fabric, namely, fine shirting fabric such as this, it was not happening.  The minimum purchase requirements for my business were higher than I wanted to spend and the retail cost were astronomical.  So waiting once each year to see him here, is well worth it to me. 
Kwiksew 2777 Men’s shirt cut in size medium/small.

Construction Details:
The pattern is Kwiksew 2777.  I cut a size a size medium for the shoulders, and graded down to a size small at the waist and arms.  The Shirt runs really large, so since this pattern was custom fit to him, I’m sorry, but its hard to remember all that I have done to this pattern to get it to fit him.  I have made this one for him and my dad several times.  Sometimes, I just don’t blog everything.  Here are a few close-ups for you to enjoy.

The pocket is there, you just need to look very closely.

I used a flat felled seam treatment for the entire garment.  Both the side seams and the sleeves seams. It was kinda hard getting into that sleeve, but well worth it in the long run.
The sleeve placket was very easy, I just followed the technique used by the pattern.
The collar was cut with the opposite side of the fabric for contrast.  The back yoke was cut with a center seam so I could get the chevron affect.
Thanks for following along.  I so loved doing this shirt.  It’s time for another one.  I guess I better get that one completed for my husband next, right?

Last year I went back to the basics. With the help of a wardrobe consultant, I have been steadily trying to make basic garments to go along with the fun flashy mood enhancing outfits I am prone to focus on regularly.  She insisted I make a basic white shirt, here.  I followed along, rather defiantly, but I did what I was told.  I had no idea that the basic white shirt would become one that I would reach for more often than not.  However, my inner child couldn’t be held back for much longer, I had to “turn it up” a notch so to speak.  Thus, I bring to you my version of the basic white button down shirt!!!!  Tadah!!!

It is so much fun when you can create exactly what you want and have it work out the first time around.  This is particularly so because I had already gone through the process of fitting and tweaking my basic sloper for the “darted” front bodice some time ago.  So all I had to do was make the changes to the basic shirt pattern as needed to make this one.  I had a few design elements in mind that I knew I wanted, including that elastic sleeve detail.  I just love it.

I kept the upper band flat and just kept the 1″ elastic in the area of the sleeve to keep it flat over the bust and at the back.  This small detail made all the difference for me.  

Another very important detail that made the difference for this being an “off-the-shoulder”, was the need for a different type of dart.  I made the regular side bust dart into a “french” dart so that it would not appear like a lone line floating in a sea of clouds.  It also elongated the torso.  Another win.  Also, I just had to have the regular “men’s” shirt pleat in the back in order to give it that oversized look.  Since I have fallen in love with my new “boyfriend” jeans, I now wanted to have a “boyfriend” shirt.  So, I made sure I exaggerated the length of the bodice and the sleeves.
The sleeve cuffs are really regular double button oversized as well so they hang over my thumb just a little to make it look too big but not slouchy.  The buttons were a gift from a customer, which made the outfit.  It really is amazing how easy it is for people to understand your style just by the clothes you wear. 

And to think, I didn’t want to wear an “off-the-shoulder” because I don’t like the idea of adding any extra to my chest area.  This flat band treatment really made all the difference.  The pants are my Style Arc Cassie pants from last year I think.

Construction Details:

  • Pattern- self drafted

  • Pattern Details:
    • Rotate side dart to french dart
    • disregard waist darts so as to keep all amount of fullness 
    • lengthen bodice front and back by 2 inches
    • lengthen sleeve 2 inches
    • slash and spread sleeve cap to add fullness at top only all the way to cuff
    • measure and cut top of shoulder and sleeve away.
Have you taken the time to make sure you have a basic pattern that you can work from when you find that special outfit or garment inspiration?

Happy Friday my sewing friends. I am quickly falling back into my days of button down shirts and t-shirts. With shirts being my true love. I keep trying to force myself to sew up a few blouses. You know the ones you must pull over your head. Well it’s not working for me.

This is probably one of the best shirt patterns put out by Butterick, but they in their infinite wisdom decided to discontinue this version. WHY!! @mccallspatterncompany would you do that???!?! Doesn’t really make since to me. Especially, since it’s a cup sized pattern and is a great design for many figure types.

With princess seaming and the best sleeve inset and sleeve cap ease I have found, this is a dream to sew. It comes with patch pockets, plackets, sleeve applets and other details that would make a great cargo shirt as well as a terrific military style shirt. So why did it go away.

Fitting wise this was easy. I cut a straight size 14 and used the D cup front piece and added a tad bit for a broad back at the blades and the. Did a sway back adjustment of only 3/8″. Of course for this fitted shirt pockets dos not work on those mounds we call bust. I I took them off and will opt for pockets on a more moderately fitted shirt.

I am so glad is traced and secured this pattern for use in the future. They should bring it back real fast and in a hurry before there is an uprising in the sewing community.

Let’s wave our flags with this picture to get them to hear our cry.

Until net time. Keep sewing.

Oh how I miss tailoring. For the last eight or ten years I have not tailored a single jacket or men’s shirt. It comes so naturally for me, so why haven’t I done anything tailored. After all, I have a Certificate of Tailoring from Design School, on top of many many years of experience with both men’s and women’s tailoring. From pad stitching to welt pockets, nothing intimidated me. One needs to first understand what it means to be a “tailor” today. (See Tailor vs. Dressmaker)

My departure may have come because tailoring in its true sense was not “in vogue” since the nineties. Thus, I concentrated on proms and daywear for women. I know dresses can actually be “tailored” in a sense, but I naturally lean towards a sport coat or jacket when I want to pull together an outfit. As for clients, they REALLY must appreciate the craft for me to break out the hymo-weft and shoulder pads.

I lingered in the shadows watching to blogger after blogger practice their skills at tailoring and participating in various sew-a-longs. Although I had yet to participate, until two weeks ago, I watched and dreamed, waiting for the day my long lost love would come once again knocking at my door.

Christmas 2013 brought something out in me! I made some men’s shirts for my loved ones. Oh! How exhilarating!!! The task was so satisfying that I didn’t want to do anything else.


I had hoarded these fabrics since 2008. I bought them at an American Sewing Guild conference in Atlanta. How about that for hoarding? 

Then Two weeks ago Peggy Sagers with Silhouette Patterns offered a free webcast jacket sew-a-long and ASG also offered a free tailored jacket sew-a-long.

There my love was, standing at my door, beckoning me to allow him in once more. I responded in kind and pulled out my green leather which I bought on a NYC fabric buying trip last year with Peggy Sagers.

More to come…leather jacket. Here’s a sneak peek.

Until next time.. Thanks for reading.