For you techie folks: here are the details about the pattern adjustments that I made before cutting the fabric.
- Altered the roll line on the jacket front to be 5/8 inch above the first button and then I made sure that it ended at least 3/8 inch out from the neck cutting line at the top
- Changed the back shoulder seems to be at least 1/2 inch longer than the front shoulder
- The center back vent was changed to 2 inches wide near the top and graded it to 3 inches at the hem.
- The front facing straight of grain orientation straightened to line up with the center front and the size was increased to 2″ inches wide at the shoulder, 3 inches wide from the midpoint of the roll line and 5 1/2 inches wide at the hem.
Before I laid out and cut the fabric, I made sure the grain was straight. The pictures above just show you a few steps that I took to make sure the grain was completely straight.
Interfacing: Before I installed the pockets and sewed the darts, I underlined the entire jacket with fusible weft interfacing cut on the same grain as the jacket. It is a Rayon/polyester medium weight weft interfacing called “Perfect Fuse” from Palmer/Pletsch.
Here you see I hand basted the chest pocket placement lines on the left front panel.
Stylish design lines: The picture above is of the jacket front. The entire jacket is designed with upper and lower parts, which can be color blocked if desired.
Lower Pocket: You see in this picture (which is upside down) the flaps have been sewn and placed and now it is time to sew the inseam pockets that are actually part of the waist seam. The flap was cut with the none public side 1/8″ smaller on each end to cause the seam to roll to the inside when turned.
OOOOPs!!…do you see that??:
More sleepy sewing. I put the pockets off towards the back too much. EEEkkk!!! Wake up Andrea!!!
OKAY!! That it, I’m done!….Now I have gone and done it! I put the pocket inside out! Time to take a break and get back to this later.
Stay tuned in for the fitting and more “Make it work.” moments.
About the author Andrea